Pousada Vivenda is a dream come true for owner John Hudson. Not only is his eye for design evident everywhere, but also his belief in offering quality, comfort and personal service at all times. The result is a rustic-chic style, with exuberant tropical touches. Although not in the historical centre of Paraty, this has its own advantages. Most of the action is a nice safe 10 minute walk away, along the river, and the pousada, in turn, is wonderfully tranquil.
Vivenda is very small with 2 chalet-type self catering bungalows and one double suite, spread around a delightful swimming pool and bar. Add some gentle background Brazilian jazz to the very personal service and intelligent conversation with John and other guests, and the impression is that you are at a very informal, yet sophisticated, house party. Wonderful!
Paraty
Paraty is a world heritage site, a beautiful cobbled colonial town, with a traffic-free historical centre. Outside festival season at least, it appears to have stopped in time. The original inhabitants were Guaiana Indians, but the present town was founded in 1667.First famous for its sugar mills and its cachaca (sugar cane liquor) production, Paraty really came of age during the gold cycle of the 17th and 18th centuries, when the Caminho do Ouro (Gold Trail) was built. This opened up the interior of the country and more importantly gave the state of Minas Gerais access to the sea. It was through the port of Paraty that much of the gold and precious stones from Minas passed on their way to Portugal.
If Paraty is as well preserved as it is, much is due to its economic isolation in the 19th century, courtesy of the rather efficient pirates hiding out on the neighbouring beach of Trindade, who effectively forced merchants to find different ports. However another reason was the difficulty of access before the 1970s when the coastal road, Rio/Santos BR101, was built. In the last 25 years local tourism has grown substantially and the number of pousadas runs into hundreds, located both inside and outside the historical centre. Many of the original colonial buildings have been refurbished and now house craft shops, restaurants and bars, with live music in the evenings.
Not to be missed
- The journey from Rio to Paraty (one of the most scenic in the world)
- Schooner trips round the Ilha Grande Bay
- Walking tour round the historical centre of Paraty
- Walking the Caminho do Ouro, the 17th/18th century gold route
- Shopping for handicrafts, rugs, hammocks, wooden boxes, art, cachaça
- Festivals: Literary (July); Pinga (August); Gastronomy (November)
Getting there without a car
The easiest way is to get the bus from the Novorio bus station in Rio using the Costa Verde bus company. The journey takes 4.5 to 5 hours with a short stop roughly half way. There are usually around 6-8 buses a day in each direction.
From the bus station to the pousada is a 10 minute walk or a 5 minute taxi ride - fixed price R$10 (for anywhere in Paraty).
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